What I’ve learned from 20 months of 3d printing

Just under two years ago I jumped into the t3d printing hobby with both feet. I ordered a pair of printers the same day, a FDM filament printer and a resin DLP printer. I had recently received a settlement check from a lawsuit and had a little extra cash to spend, so I bought both types printers since I had a use for both.

Leading up to those purchases I had been finding or buying printer files, so when the printers arrived, I had a pile of possible files to print. I had been watching videos, reading articles online, and talking to a guy I worked with who had been printing for years.  I also was talking often with my nephew who was a 3d printing pro. I thought I had a good idea what I was in for. I knew I had to slice the files before I could print them, though I wasn’t 100% sure what that actually meant. I knew I needed supplies, spools of PLA (or other materials) to feed the FDM printer, and bottles of resin for the DLP printer. I had learned that I needed some method to clean and wash the resin prints, and some way to cure the prints as well. I made more than a few amazon purchases as I rounded up supplies, and went on a hunt for a good, high-strength (93%+) alcohol for washing prints. Who knew the alcohol was going to be the toughest item to source locally?

Supplies in hand, and printer inbound, I awaited delivery day. The resin printer showed up first. It is an Anycubic Photon, and out of the bow was mostly assembled. I’ve written a bit about my initial struggles with that printer here, and I will only touch on resin printing briefly.

FEP films kinda suck. If a print fails and adheres to the film, there is a decent chance you will ruin the film trying to remove the stuck prints. Replacing it is more tedious than hard, but it takes time and money to do. As a word of warning, find out as much as you can about a particular resin, even if the color differs, before you start printing with a new color/brand. I found out the hard way that grey resin (mine is from Elegoo) needs much longer layer cure times than black. Which makes no sense to me, but a ruined film, and several failed prints attest to. I switched to grey after I started printing multi-part miniatures and was having trouble removing the supports. Black on black on black is just really hard to see what is what, and even where exactly the supports attached. I had hoped the grey would make that job a little easier. As of this writing, I still haven’t successfully printed with the grey resin, but that is mostly me being lazy. I am pretty sure I have the settings now, and its just a matter of filling the resin vat and pressing print. Other that resin issues, just remember to have an extra FEP film or three on hand.

With my FDM printer, there have been a number of issues to resolve.

The forst upgrade I did was only to add lighting. My printers are in the basement, and there is ok lighting for most things, where the printers sit is a little dark. I added a strip of dimmable LED lights to the Ender to provide lighting directly on the printer. It is this item from Amazon. I printed a diffuser bar to cover the lights (I had some translucent filament on hand) because the LEDs are BRIGHT!

Many of the problems I have had are related to bed leveling. With both printers, actually, so watch A LOT of videos and read more articles on leveling for your particular printer. And level that bed!

The printer I bought is a Creality Ender 3 v2. The v2 model adds a few of the upgrades most people put on the Ender 3, solving some issues such as bad power supply location (and cheap/bad power supplies), noise, and upgrade possibilities. It also adds a corundum glass bed, in an attempt to solve adhesion issues. The v2 also swaps motherboards from the original Ender 3, adding what is called a “silent” board, which I guess decreases noise. Since I only have experience with the silent board, I don’t know how much difference that actually is, but my printer is fairly quiet. It’s mostly the fans that make noise. The new board also has ports for a couple other upgrades, like a filament runout sensors, auto bed-leveling sensor, and I think more stepper motors (for a second Z-axis screw drive). In general, if you are considering an Ender 3, pay the difference and get a v2. Though, I will give you an even better option by the end of this article.

Assembling the Ender took me a couple hours. Mostly because the instructions are both poorly written, and printed in a really small font. I had to watch an assembly video to make sure I was doing everything correctly. Eventually, I was assembled and ready to go.

It took me a few tries to get the bed properly leveled, and for the print to stick to the glass. Through some trial and error, I found the best filament for ease of adhesion, was from Atomic filament. Their basic filament is rock solid, and stuck extremely well to the glass bed. So well, in fact, I had to freeze one large print to get it to pop free. The only down side was cost. Atomic PLA filament is about $30 a kilo. If you are going to be an occasional printer, and want to really cut down on printing hassles, stick with the Atomic PLA. I was going through too much filament to continue to pay that much, and needed a cheaper option. I found Printed Solid’s Jessie PLA, and at $20 a kilo, I was pretty excited.

Until the prints wouldn’t stick to the glass bed. More leveling. More videos.  A few text strings to my nephew. I settled on hairspray to increase the tackiness of the bed. Eventually I was able to get printing again, though it’s a narrow band of not enough/too much hairspray on the bed that was making me rethink my choice of filaments.

While that was happening, the original extruder broke. Why Creality is still putting a plastic extruder on their printers is beyond me. But, mine broke, and I found out through a bit of research that almost all of the plastic ones do. I ordered a new all-aluminum extruder and swapped it out. If you do, watch more videos! You will need to confirm or change the e-steps (exactly how much filament is pushed through) with a new extruder. It’s not hard, but to ensure good printing, you really need to follow this step.

All metal extruder. Blue tube is the Bowden tube.

Back in business, right? Wrong. I was having continuing adhesion issues, and was leveling the bed far too often. Bed springs. Swap the bed springs everyone said. Another order. Some more tinkering. More bed leveling. New springs seemed to help some. I was leveling less, but still having adhesion issues with the Jessie PLA.

In the midst of these other issues, I had a couple nozzle clog issues. I had to swap nozzles to fix one. Then, while using an older roll of filament I bought off a guy (long story), I had a clog that would not clear. I ended up having to rebuild the hotend entirely, new heat block, thermal break and heatsink. I was pretty proud of myself for pulling it off. I even had parts to do it again if necessary. Back to printing.

Top row L-R: Original bed spring. Upgrade spring. Current silicone bed mount. Middle: PTFE tube. Bottom row L-R: Brass nozzle. Bowden tube coupler.

Still fighting the adhesion issues, but I was getting plenty of successful prints once I had that perfect coating of hairspray on the glass.

Then, I had a catastrophic failure.

Before you say “Dang dude, you have A LOT of issues with 3d printing, there is no way I want this hassle!”, I promise this is mostly because my Ender runs basically 24/7. I print so much, and so many things. Most of my issues are simple wear and tear. But I’ll give you a list of items to swap straight out and avoid the hassles I have had.

The failure. Right.

I was printing an articulated slug for my daughter. It’s a minor character in the Brandon Sanderson Skyward series of books, which my daughter loves. I started a rather lengthy print before I went to work, made sure it as adhering properly. I called my daughter to have he check on it before she went to school and she sent a picture of the mess on the bed. It was horrible.

Solid block of PLA wrapped around the heat block.

I had her stop the print and turn off the printer. It wasn’t anything she could deal with. I had ordered a new fan for the hotend already, so I was planning on a minor upgrade, but this forced my hand. I spent hours trying to save the hotend, using a soldering iron to carve off hardened PLA. I got it mostly clean, but there was PLA encasing the wires to the thermistor and heating element. No joy. I was going to have to replace the entire hotend… Which I had just rebuilt…

I ordered another hotend, but was so frustrated with both printers (the grey resin fiasco occurred at the same time), that they just sat. I got deployed again, and they got ignored for about six months. I had a large terrain piece that was 3/4s finished, but needed another 20+ parts off the Ender to complete. Plus I had about 60 map tiles from Hexton Hills to resin print, not to mention all the figure models I had recently received for ma Kickstarter. My heart wasn’t in it. I needed a break, I guess.

While the printers were idle, I was having a personal debate about both resins and filaments.

Should I keep fighting with the Jessie PLA and hairspray, or should I go back to the more expensive Atomic PLA? With the Jessie PLA I had to watch every print start. Frequently I had to stop the print, and either add a bit more hairspray, or clean the bed completely, and start over. I was getting frustrated, and wasting time and filament. With the resins, I had to listen to the first few levels print and hope I heard the “pop” of the print breaking free from the FEP film. If it failed, that was a serious pain to clean up.

I was just about to bin all the Jessie PLA and order more Atomic PLA, when my nephew mentioned how much he liked his PEI print bed. PEI (Polyetherimide) seemed like a miracle surface. No tape, hairspray, or glue sticks. PLA and ABS stick great. Or so the claims are made. After my nephew got it, and fell in love with it, he convinced me to give it a try. Around the same time I paid him to replace the hotend for me. He has more experience, more time, and actually likes tinkering. I have money. We both won.

Back to PEI, I ordered it, installed it, and wish I had done this months ago. My new bed surface has PEI on a thin sheet of spring steel that attaches to a magnetic sticker on the aluminum bed. When the print is finished, I pop the PEI sheet off, give a little flex, and the print pops free. I can literally push print and walk away now; I have zero fear of the print not sticking. Jessie PLA works great on PEI, so I am one very happy guy.

one brand of PEI. Lines are smears of filament from a too-close nozzle or reference lines of filament from the last print.

While I was installing the PEI bed, I also added a CR Touch auto bed-leveling sensor, and silicone bed supports (replacing the upgraded springs). Ideally now, I will almost never have to level the bed again. I will verify its level occasionally, but I can let the CR Touch do its thing. Coupled with the PEI bed, my Ender is now basically a push-to-print device.

The small device with the colored wires is the CR Touch sensor

Well, until I had Bowden tube issues.

The Bowden tube directs the filament from the extruder to the hotend. It’s a plastic tube, mine are from Capricorn and made of PTFE, a super slippery plastic material. Something no one tells you at the start is that the couplers that hold the tube in place wear out. Yay.

So, with all the wear and tear on a printer that works like a draft horse, my couplers wore out. Luckily, I caught it before it wasted filament and time. But in my laziness (Or stupidity. The jury is out). I only replaced the tube and not the couplers. Until it happened again and I started researching online and found out the couplers wear out…

And of course, my half repair used up the rest of the spare tubing I had. Or thought I had. Once the new tubing arrived, I found another spare I had stashed.  As I type this, I replaced the couplings and the damaged tube. And then put the Beast back to work.

I only have about 2,000 files still to print.

So here is what I would do if I bought another Ender 3 v2.

1. Replace the extruder with an all-metal version
2. Replace the springs with silicone solid mounts.
3. Add a CR Touch auto-leveling sensor
4. Replace the stock Bowden couplers with upgraded parts
5. Add a magnetic PEI build plate

Or, let Creality do all the work for you and just order the Ender 3v2 Neo, which has all these upgrades already installed. At $299, it’s a great deal, too. Besides all the hassles, I spent $260 on my Ender 3v2, and spent at least $75-100 on upgrades (not counting the new hotend). Save yourself time and hassle, and get the much-improved Neo.

As a note, I am in no way sponsored by Creality, I am just passing on info and experience. Hope it helps!

BG

Project YT-1300: Converting an Icon

Some time ago I happened across a series of photos of the deconstruction and reconstruction of a YT-1300 light freighter model from Fantasy Flight Games’ X-Wing miniatures game. It was a set of great photos showing step by step how a crafty modeler cut apart a great model, and then rebuilt it into an even better model. I saved all the pictures with the intention to build my own version. You call it copying, I call it an homage to a great conversion.

Here is the finished model that inspired me. Unfortunately, it was so long ago I have lost the link to this crafty fella’s blog. I believe his name is Robert Sakaluk. I blame FFG and the closure of their forum and all the great repaints and modeling that were stashed in the X-Wing and Armada areas of that defunct forum.

Inspiration YT model pics

I had purchased the original Millennium Falcon probably just as it was released. I didn’t realize (or remember, at least) that I happened upon X-Wing just as Wave 2 was being released. It included two of my favorite ships in the entire Star Wars Universe, the Millennium Falcon and Slave-1, Bob Fett’s modified Firespray-31. Fully painted, and very detailed, I had to have them. That they belonged to a great miniatures game was a nice bonus.

FFG Falcon

As I fell into the deep hole that is X-Wing, I found the FFG forums and was inspired by the conversions and repaints everyone was doing. One particular fellow had down a conversion that moved the off-center cockpit of the Falcon to the centerline. And it was repainted a light gray and blue. That guy went by the screen name ZombieHedgehog. I was able to commission him to make a copy of the model he had posted. It turned out fantastic:

Blue center cockpit Falcon

He explained everything that went into the project, but I wasn’t comfortable trying it on my own. I’m not sure why, I have been building plastic model kits since I was probably eight-years-old. Something about hacking into a painted model gave me pause.

Time went on and I picked up two more Falcon models. FFG released a version modified and painted to represent the version seen in the sequel movies. Then another model was released of the version from the movie when the Falcon still belonged to Lando.

Somewhere in there came the inspiration to build my own armoured version of the classic YT-1300. Duly inspired, I picked up yet another YT model from FFG. And started the project. Honestly, I don’t know exactly how long this project took. Months. Over a year in total. I would do a little work, get frustrated, and set it aside for weeks. Having never done something like this before, the learning curve was steep.

I had purchased a scribing tool before I started. And a pack of engine nozzles intended for super detailing Gundam models (I believe.) I wanted the old-school feel of round engine nozzles for this build and made an eBay purchase. And then another when I realized I needed more of a particular nozzle size than the pack had. Then I picked up some Evergreen plastic in sheets and rods and strips. With all the supplies in hand, I had to take the first step.

Cutting into a perfectly good model.

Using a razor saw and cutting slow and careful, I tore that model apart. Stripping the entire cockpit out, and then removing the engines and much of the rear superstructure, I had a carcass that was ready for anything. I printed out all the pictures I had found and spent a lot of time staring at them. Progress was slow. I would make a few small parts, or cut and shape a piece of plastic, then wait days or weeks. Slowly it came back together. There were some complex curves that gave me fits. I made and discarded a number of templates and parts trying to rebuild that model. And used greenstuff to hide my mistakes or gaps I gave up trying to fit properly.

As pieces came together, I began to detail the model. Scribing panel lines went a long way towards making it look more like a space ship and less like a chunk of plastic. Tiny pieces of plastic were cut and glued into place to give visual interest. The engine bay was detailed. I constructed some engines and even used putty to hold a couple engine layouts in place to poll some friends on Facebook about which looked best. More cutting. Lots of filing. Sanding. Filling. Gluing. Some days it seemed like it was never going to be complete.

side by side engine layouts

And then, it was. I held a finished model in my hands and checked it over and over for anything else I could do. I think this is one project I could pick at nearly forever. Finally, I called it done and set it aside.

No idea what else I was doing at the time, but it sat unpainted for a long time. Eventually I primed it, and began to paint it. I liked the red and gray of the inspiration model, and gave it a similar paint job. Being a space freighter meant I got to dirty it up, using several washes and inks to put rust, oil, and fuel drips and streaks all over it. Unlike the original guy who was good enough to be able to construct it so he could paint it in subassemblies, I had a complete model to paint. Which meant the engine bay isn’t nearly as well painted as I would like.

primed/washed model

Overall, I am extremely happy with how the model came out. I have a distinct YT model, in a flashy paint scheme, that I built myself.

finished model

Here are couple other repaints I have down. Just for fun, or before a particular model was released.

X-Wing is still a great game. I have enough ships to play monster games, or throw a whole tourney on my own. And several are custom paints. Which makes it a little bit cooler. With the confidence gained, I built an armoured Nebulon-B for Star Wars Armada, and began painting all the tiny fighters for the squadrons in Armada.

A chance image of a converted model led to months of construction and painting. Funny how internet wanderings can do that.

Thanks for stopping by,

   BG

Crafting, Creating and Finding Cool Stuff

One of the things I have enjoyed about getting back into D&D has been collecting and crafting various game aids. While none of these are essential for gaming, they all add to the immersion and fun. This article will show off the various items I have found, as well as the first items I crafted myself for our games. And for the guys over on TheMiniaturesPage asking about minis, these are the only 2 minis I have painted as D&D minis. Bother were entered into a local painting competition at Our House Games. A Death Knight and a Dwarven Cleric.

Both models look much better in person!

A couple years ago, before we started playing D&D, I found a wood worker online who made cool dice trays. They are square, with cork leather bottoms, and came in a variety of woods, finishes, and cork colors. Unfortunately, this guy seems to have stopped trading, which is a bummer, because I wanted one or two more of his dice trays.

This is the one I bought. Called ‘The Dark Hunt” it is a dark wood with a grey cork. Dice roll so great here. Not super loud, but enough clatter off the edges to know you are rolling dice. There were other super cool color combos, but alas, Iron Archer Gamecraft seems to have slipped away into the ether.

Looking for more custom options, a guy I met on Facebook crafted a trio of dice bowls for me from various woods. These went to my son and his gaming buddies. I may have mentioned these before, but for completeness and for those that are new to the blog, I am sharing them again. My son and his buddies play a lot of 40K, so these were crafted to include the icon of their favorite army. Dark Angels, Necrons and Blood Angels.  They turned out amazing, and all three get plenty of use. The DA bowl was often on the table while we played D&D as a secondary dice tray/bowl.

While waiting for my buddy to turn more bowls, I found a really cool dice tray made of leather on Etsy. My daughter plays with another group as well as our family games, and travels to play with her other group. When I found this portable tray, I knew I had to get it for her. It’s a perfect tray for D&D. Portable, leather, and rolls up like a scroll case. It just looks like it belongs in a fantasy RPG. You can find it here:

In all the games I’ve played that used dice of some sort, I always utilized a time-out for bad dice. Sit it aside, or load it back in the box until next week. Heck, I’ve even launched a really bad die out the side door of a game store. Said door opened onto a road so that bad die could end its useless existence. Way too many 1s on that little turd. While playing 40K I all-too-often simply bought a new box of D6s to continue a game. My dice rolling is notoriously bad, and I needed something better for D&D. Besides, a nice set of polyhedral dice isn’t something to throw away. I needed a dice jail. A real dice jail. Which I also found on Etsy. Now this was before I had a 3D printer, and the jails I picked up are most defiantly 3D printed. Still, for anyone sans printer, this is a viable option. While this is what I bought here: there are other options out there. I like these because they are portable, so I have two, one for home games and one my daughter takes on her itinerant gaming journeys. Bad dice beware, we have a place for you.

Since I was the only one familiar with the Forgotten Realms, I found a high-resolution image of the Sword Coast the WOTC has here and had it printed and laminated. I think I printed it 24”x36”, so it is good size. I have bought a few Mike Schley maps (he produces official Wizards of the Coast art) and had those printed larger as well. I find it helpful to have a bigger map than what is included in the adventure modules. You can find Mike’s amazing art here.

While perusing one of the many gaming-related groups and Facebook pages I am part of, I saw someone who had a skull they used for bloodies coins in a one-shot game. The coins were bought with real cash that was donated to a charity after the game. The coins were purchased and used to roll with advantage during the game. In D&D, rolling with advantage means you roll two d20s for an attack or save and use the higher roll. Pretty nifty. However, in that game, every coin bought and used gave the DM a coin to spend on advantage for the bad guys. In the review he wrote, the players loved it. The skull was a plastic Halloween decoration he opened up and then covered with craft paper to give it the look of being covered in desiccated skin. A little grewsome. A lot cool. And I knew I needed on. I’ve gone over it before on this blog, so here is one quick picture of my skull that holds what I call ‘coins of destiny’ that work in a similar fashion. Use them at your own risk.

Skulley the skull bowl

Which reminds me, I bought these coins off Amazon to fill my skull with: here

Heavy, with a shiny gold tone, they work great for my need. There is another pack from the same company that has small denomination coins. Kind of cool for a game prop.

After more than a few gaming sessions, we noticed the hit point section of the character sheets were getting worn through from erasing. While I guess we could just print new sheets, I like the look of a well-used form at the table. Thinking about it some, I decided to get some small game diary books for them to use. They could make notes of important NPCs, traps, code words, or whatever they needed, and also keep track of HPs in the book. There are very nice examples on Etsy, but I wanted something a little less expensive, and home crafted.

Heading to my local craft store, Hobby Lobby, I perused the aisles looking for something that would work. I found small drawing books, blank pages of a cream white heavy paper. A three pack was only like $10 regular price, on sale for $5 I believe. Then I picked up two sheets of dyed and finished leather (also on sale), some rivets and buckles. Then a second trip was in order for a bit more leather to actually make the straps for closures. Doing this on the cheap meant I did not buy the cobra or python or caiman skins. As cool as those were, using fancy leather would have priced this craft into “just buy one off Etsy”. Which defeats the whole crafting for gaming idea.

Adding a can of 3M 77 spray adhesive, I was all set. The leather was nearly a perfect fit. Though it could have been slightly bigger, to give more overlap and get better glue adhesion. Not only was I going cheap on this, I was lazy, too. No fancy stitching for this guy. Let’s just glue the leather to the books. I laid the book on the leather, centered it, and marked the edges with a scratch awl.

 After some consideration on corners (I didn’t do well, so figure this out yourself. It can’t be any worse than mine were…) I made some cuts and then sprayed the leather with the 3M spray. Be careful! It sticks really, really well… Lay the book along the marks, and press into place. I overlapped the edges and used the smooth end of a screwdriver to burnish them over. See? Cheap. There is a nifty tool for burnishing/rolling edges of leather that I chose not to buy.

With the leather stuck to the covers, I pulled out a leather hole punch from my son’s leather working tools. This is a pretty invaluable tool, though rather expensive. I used the smallest punch to put four holes in both front and back covers, then set the smallest rivets I had. I did use the offcuts to make backers for the rivets since the sketchbooks have paper covers. I figured this would give a little more strength.

With the leather on, and rivets set, it was time to figure out the buckles. I laid them out and decided which buckle to use with which book. One has two straps, the other has one. The extra leather I picked up to make the straps with was a cheap pack of dyed scraps. Next time I am spending a little more to get the right colors. These are a trial run, and really designed to be disposable at some point. After cutting the straps out, I punched some more holes using the awl for some, since the hole punch didn’t reach. Setting more rivets attached the straps and the buckles.

While these are by no means perfect, they look a little better than plain notebooks. Hobby Lobby here in the States has several drawing books with leather covers. If you are looking for something that is less work and don’t mind the expense, they are definitely an option. Or search Etsy, there are plenty there.

For a one shot I ran for my daughter’s group, I created some healing potions. I had seen these on Etsy and other places, but I needed 10 or so, and that made buying them cost prohibitive. For a while I thought I was going to have to give up on the idea because I couldn’t find inexpensive d4s. In D&D, a healing potion allows you to roll a number of d4s to regain hit points. My plan was to put two to ten d4s in each bottle, enough to roll for a healing, greater healing and superior healing or supreme healing potions. The bottles I found (I was on a time crunch) didn’t allow 10 d4s to fit. I also found some corks to cork the bottles with, though as purchased from Michael’s the bottles had a plastic lid covered with a cute little piece of fabric tied on. I can’t link the bottles, since they don’t appear on the Michael’s site. The dice had to be ordered online because Chessex dice (the ones I love) were just too much for something I was giving away. eBay had a 50 pack for around $10 shipped. ($13 now, I just ordered more.) These were a big hit, all of the kids thought they were cool, and were surprised they got to keep them.

The last items are some in game items. I was reading on a D&D website called The Alexandrian and was browsing all his tips for dungeon masters. One of the things he does is makes printed “books” to give his players when they encounter in game books. Instead of saying “you found a book” and proceeding to describe it and what it might have in it, he hands over a printed book. It sounded cool, so I browsed the net for some suitable book covers and other art. I spent some time in Paint 3D (I think) and made the covers into a two-cover spread, filling as much of a page as I could. If there were words or unusable marks on (watermarks mostly) I used one of the tools in the program to cover the markings with a swatch of the cover. These are not perfect by any means, and I can’t link for copyright reasons, but I hope you get the idea. Then I went through the adventure we were on and looked through it for any books they might find. Creating these, and a couple more, I did some brief writeups in a word document. Making them two columns in landscape mode, I was able to craft simple books. If I needed more pages, I made those as a separate document. I have access to a color printer, so I played around with ink colors and fonts, and drew some crude sketch maps.

If you do your own, go wild. Provide as much or as little info as you want. In one book, I told them it was written in an unknown language, and only listed the few things they could read. I prepared another page of the info they can find if they get the book deciphered. This is actually kind of fun, and gave me a nice outlet for writing and dreaming.

With everything ready, I bought some heavy linen paper to print these on. I laid them out and did a couple test prints on plain paper to make sure orientation was correct. Then I loaded up the fancy paper and went to town. After printing, I trimmed the paper back to the printed book covers and folded them into books. Cool little player props. Now then can reference their own discoveries and I can give them info that they have to actually read to find out versus me dumping info on them. I have plans for lots more, including the spell books of wizards they take on, and scrolls they find.

Four “books”, book with hidden section, data dump book

So that’s it. They player aids and props I have bought or created so far. Not everyone cares. Some people love it. I’ll probably make more stuff. A chainmail dice bag is absolutely on the to-do list. I think I want a couple ornate candlesticks to put some LED candles on for atmosphere. Anything to put us in the mood to cause carnage somewhere on the Sword Coast south of Waterdeep.

I’ll leave you with this video of the coolest DM’s screen ever being created from wood and silver wire and magnets. A thing of beauty. If any of you are looking for a gift for me for any reason whatsoever, a screen from Wyrmwood would hit the ticket.

Have you crafted or created anything for your gaming? Let me know in the comments what you have created, I am always looking for new inspiration.

BG the DM out